Nile Cruise
Egypt

November and December 2008

Exchange rate about 8LE (Egyptian pounds) to £1 sterling

Tuesday 25^th November 2008

Good run down to Gatwick and checked in to the Acorn Lodge Hotel. Meal in Ye Olde Six Bells with Gill.

Wednesday 26^th November 2008

Long queue at the airport. Mamma Mia and Wall-E inflight movies. Modern airport at Luxor. Luxor temple illuminated. Mix up with cabins with the Hawkes. Boarded the Crown Prince and moved into cabin 321. Noisy banging and shouting to celebrate someones birthday at dinner. Power cuts on the boat that evening.

Thursday 27tth November 2008

Up at 06:00 for comprehensive breakfast buffet, followed by lack-lustre briefing from our holiday rep. Off to the Valley of the Kings via the two huge statues of the Colossi of Memni. Visited the underground tombs of Rameses IV (KV2), Sety II (KV15) and Thutmes IV (KV43). Then off to the Alabaster Factory/shop. Waited outside watching a donkey and goat who seemed to be friends. Road train to Hapshepsut temple. Ran the gauntlet of stalls, hawkers and vendors. 3pm found us on the Crown Prince sun deck with a cold bottle of Sakara Gold beer. The moslem Call to Prayer wailed from loudspeakers on the banks of the Nile.

Friday 28^th November 2008

The sun streamed into our cabin as we pulled back the blackout curtain. Edfu temple today. Usual blazing heat. Our guide, Romany led us through the melee of other guides and tourists with shouts of "attack! attack!" Got ripped off for 120LE for 6 cans of tonic water and a can of bitter lemon from a stall by the mooring.  We set sail at 10:30 and celebrated with gin and tonics in our cabin. Egrets followed cattle grazing on the lush green banks. Barren brown hills bordered the narrow fertile strip on each side of the river. There was only one taker for the small freezing cold swimming pool on the sun deck, jokingly dubbed the Olympic pool by our rep. The evening was started by cocktails in the lounge and introduction to the crew, followed by a “gala dinner” of smoked salmon, “chicken” (not much of it in evidence) in puff pastry, perch (fish) and Baked Alaska.

Saturday 29^th November 2008

Leisurely breakfast followed by massage on the sundeck (220LE). We went ashore at Aswan and after negotiating the “human flies” found a ferry to the plush Mövenpick Hotel on Elephantine Island. We took a “Schindlers lift” to the 13^th floor for the bar and observatory at the top of the ugly tower which dominates the hotel. The bar was impressive and looked like something from a James Bond film with fantastic views of Aswan. We got a 40LE diet Pipsi (sic) and a bottle of Stella from the bar lower down. Stella, the authentic Egyptian lager beer since 1897, as opposed to Stella Artois. It seemed novel to have cans where the ring pulls came right off.

We went back to the east bank of the Nile and found the Egypt Duty Free shop, which sadly was closed. We were hoping to get some wine and spirits at more reasonable prices than on the boat (168LE for a bottle of Egyptian wine). Went back to sunbathe on the boat and read “Cold Comfort Farm”.

Sunset visit to Kom Ombo temple, mooring right alongside it. Kom Ombo is a double temple located on a bend in the river Nile about 50 km north of Aswan. Mummified crocodiles and carvings of medical instruments. Temple damaged by an earthquake in 1992.

The Nubian music evening on the boat consisted of more banging and shouting in the name of entertainment.

Sunday 30^th November 2008

Visited the huge Aswan dam are and the concrete lotus flower building put up by the Russians. We saw the power station and the vast Lake Nasser created by the dam, causing many temples to be re-located. After a brief demonstration and sales pitch at the Papyrus Factory we waited outside and watched the young papyrus bookmark vendors evade the “Dads Army”-style tourist and antiquities police. Rubbish was heaped up between the buildings.

Then it was on to Philae Temple by boat from a dusty coach park. A jewellery salesman plied his trade on the small boat as we headed for the temple. Sadly some of his wares fell apart before we got to our destination. We had to bring our life jackets from the cruise ship, but they mainly got stuffed under the seats due to the heat. Historic foreign graffiti joined Egyptian hieroglyphics amongst the old ruins. Magnificent purple flowers by the landing stage.

Our next excursion was a small boat trip around the Nile islands. We boarded the boat choking in the thick black smog of exhaust fumes from a huge Nile cruise ship. We chugged passed the botanical gardens, the tomb of the Aga Khan and amongst the grey rock islands that resembled elephants. We got back to an elaborate towel sculpture in our cabin. They had really gone to town with toilet paper drapes and had transformed the bed into a lake with ducks and swans. We had a buffet lunch on board the Crown Prince and then retired to the sun deck where a stiff breeze was blowing. I had a dip in our freezing cold 150cm deep swimming pool and we relaxed with a cold bottle of lager. The moslem “call to prayer” echoed from the bank and donkeys brayed. Smoke drifted from campfires on the bank below the yellow arid hills that marked the limit of the lush green vegetation.

It was “jelly baby” night on the boat and we all had to wear native jallabia outfits. Steve got dragged up for the birthday dance din along with a man celebrating his 60^th and Heather who was celebrating her 30^th. We went on to the lounge to watch the party games and our guide, Romany, proved to be an aspiring Butlins “Red Coat”. The most amusing spectacle was the making of mummies from a partner using toilet roll.

Monday 1^st December 2008

We had a relative lie-in until 07:30am and spent the morning sun-bathing under a blue sky and bright sun, but a stiff breeze. Our trips today were to Karnak and Luxor temples. Luxor temple boasted Roman paintings and had a mosque inside it.

In the evening I went out in search of wine. Goat foraged in the narrow streets and I passed a building site where a man slept under the stars on his bed. I managed to secure some Obelisk red wine (Cabernet Sauvignon 2007) for 61LE from Hamees restaurant. Bottles lovingly wrapped in newspaper then black plastic bags.

Tuesday 2^nd December 2008

Today we cruised north up the Nile to Denderah (Dandara) temple, the LBT (last bloody temple!) This one boasted an intact roof, the Egyptian zodiac, a crypt and the only depiction of an elephant in carvings. Our fellow cruisers hotly debated how much tip they should leave for the guide and the boat crew. The holiday reps guide tip seemed unduly high. We cruised south back to Luxor under a hot sun. Children waved from the banks and engines chuntered (generators? Pumps?). Most houses seemed to have unfinished upper floors. We were given an impressive demonstration of fruit and towel modelling on the upper deck while two disinterested looking soldiers manned the machine gun mounted on the stern. “Lift muzac” on the boat provided a soundtrack. Cattle grazed on islands and a few small boats plied their trade on the river. Minarets poked above the palm trees. Back at Luxor we headed for Hamees Restaurant for some more red wine (60LE today!).

Wednesday 3^rd December 2008

Our departure day from the boat and on to the hotel. We settled our 1,073LE bar bill with the receptionist holding the credit card machine out of the door and over the river to get reception. We went on the coach to the Sonesta St George hotel, passing the laughable “No horn” roadsigns that were universally ignored by the cacophony of hooting traffic. An elderly lady went crashing over on the uneven Astroturf that surrounded the swimming pool. We went for a bottle of rose wine at the panoramic rooftop bar of the St Joseph hotel and then dined on pizza at the St George English pub.

Thursday 4^th December 2008

We grazed at the huge breakfast buffet and shared the crumbs with lots of small birds that were obviously used to waiting on the fence for scraps. We did some shopping at Arkwrights (Open all hours) which offered ex-pat home comforts such as Marmite, Pringles and Cornflakes. We scooted passed the “human flies” touting for trade outside the hotel and walked into town in search of the Egypt Free Shop. Passing motorcyclists wore hard-hats as crash helmets. We found the shop, but the duty free was only valid within 48 hours of entering Egypt, so we had to settle for some local wine and rum. We got a calesh (horse and cart) back for 5LE after a bit of haggling. Local men relaxed in the hubble-bubble bars.

DVD player saga! Called reception and they thought that we wanted to borrow a DVD player. A man then delivered one with no connection leads or the faintest idea of how to get it working. I sat in our room until it was collected a few hours later.

Complaints and promise of room change tomorrow.

Italian restaurant at the Sonata – pizza and Obelisk red wine.

Friday 5^th December 2008

Up at 04:40an for our balloon flight. Wait in lobby. Slideshow on reception advertised the Sonesta sister ship with “sun desk,”

Viking yellow red balloon with fierce burner. There were 17 people in our balloon. Basket layout was:

Biblical scenery in the local villages.

Dogs, chickens and sheep.

Got certificate and T-shirts (which kids immediately tried to snatch and then begged for).

Balloonist team dance to drum.

Moved rooms 217 to 220 as we felt that our one had "seen better days".

Security posts on the streets had metal shields on wheels for security/army to take refuge behind when advancing (or retreating!).

Wait again in room for DVD technician.

Cars reverse down one way streets.

3 men finally get DVD player working and we watch Cold Comfort Farm.

Steak supper in Deans Bistro.

Saturday 6^th December 2008

Early breakfast. Omelette tosser was in fine form. Also had 0% fat yoghurt, honey and fresh fruit.

We relaxed on our sunbeds on the Astroturf while balloons drifted lazily over the West Bank.Power tools roar from above where 2 new floors are being constructed (and should have been finished). I walked into town in search of the Off Licence. Useless Tourist Information place said you could get wine in any shop and gave me leaflet in French. Passed proper locals shops. Sheep outside butchers where meat hung in doorways. Eggs and chickens for sale. Youths trotted along on ponies. Colourful fruit and vegetable displays. Found off licence by train station and bought 2 bottles of red Obelisk and a bottle of Bolanachi Aloha rum for 250LE.

Evening meal in the Lantern (nice clean restaurant next to Deans Bistro).

Lemon Indonesian stir-fry chicken.

Sunday 7^th December 2008

Walked together into town passed the colourful local shops. Had tea at Hamees and got some wine to take away.

Small lizards by swimming pool at hotel.

Beauty Free Shop!

Visit Vince and Eileen Ellis at Maratim Jolie Ville Island hotel. Got a taxi to the resort.

Classical music sunset, swooping kingfishers over the Nile and flying V’s of Egyptian geese fly across the red sky. Tea on the lawn by the Royal Suite/hut. Small zoo with crocodile. Back for Jungle Book DVD at hotel.

Monday 8^th December 2008

Call to prayer echoes across the valley and red balloons drift over the Nile. Today was a moslem feast day. Sheep and goats were slaughtered for celebratory feast. The little birdies joined us for breakfast. Fresh fruit and squeezed orange and grapefruit juice from juice squeezer and his assistant! 0% fat yoghurt, honey and cakes. Peas, chicken and mini-burgers. Omelette chef tossed omelettes and fried eggs in his little pan. Walked into town. Luxor folk in holiday mood and youths rode donkeys down the street. Crowds packed the central square by Luxor temple. We had falafel, chicken kebabs and chips in Hamees and restocked with a couple of bottles of red wine. We had our evening meal in “A Taste of India” under a “Death on the Nile” movie poster and washed down chicken tikka masala with Omar Khyyam red wine. They had a guest book with entries from all nationalities. We went back to the mezzanine bar at our hotel where two girls sang Boney M songs to an empty house before retiring to watch a Black Adder DVD in our room.

Tuesday 9^th December 2008

We had breakfast and then setup on sun loungers, poolside. Initial cloud cleared. Went across to St Josephs rooftop bar for Obelisk Rose wine and tuna mayo jacket potatoes. Cars hoot far below, cruise ships ply the Nile and feluccas weave between them on their zig-zag courses. Staff sing cheerily from the kitchen. We went on to the souk for some enthusiastic bargaining for alabaster Egyptian cats. Busy square as moslem festivities continue.

In the evening we had a Japanese teppanyaki meal in our hotel as celebratory banging and shouting echoed down the street outside.

Wednesday 10^th December 2008

Final breakfast with our feathered friends followed by sunbathing until 11am. Then packing for home and checkout at 12 noon. Went across to the Kings Head pub with it’s Bob Marley posters, painted “stained glass” windows and no punters for pizza. On another poster "Reg Holdsworth" of Coronation Street fame proudly advertised Northern Smoothie bitter. Back to the Sonesta St George hotel at 13:30 watching the guest pass through the beeping metal detector in the lobby where we waited for our transfer bus. Sent a couple of e-mails from the Lotus Hotel internet café next door (10LE for half hour) and paid our bar bill for the hotel (1,200 LE. Rate at hotel was 8.1LE to £1 sterling). Off to airport and home to the UK.